The gooseberry and rhubarb: these two culinary stalwarts, as well as the White Rose, should be on the Yorkshire flag, I reckon.  Both grow well in the region, and the gooseberry, because it can live for 20+ years, appeals to the Yorkshire instinct for value for money!

Gooseberry shows – where size does matter – were widespread across the North of England, but have dwindled in recent years. Although the annual Egton Bridge show in North Yorkshire each August is still going strong.

Image: Egton Bridge Old Gooseberry Show

Here’s a recipe that uses elderflowers to complement the sharpness of the gooseberries. If you can’t be bothered to collect the elderflower heads (umbrels), you could use elderflower cordial instead. But why pay for the cordial when the elderflower is out there just waiting for you to pick it!

Elderflower heads – free for the picking!

Ingredients

• 900g/2lb gooseberries, topped and tailed
• 225g/8oz caster sugar
• 4 elderflower heads (umbrels), washed and dried. Alternatively, use two tablespoons of elderflower cordial
• 90g/3½ oz unsalted butter
• 175g/6oz plain flour
• pinch of salt
• 28g/1oz hazelnuts, chopped

Method

1. Place the gooseberries in a buttered oven proof dish and sprinkle with 150g/5oz of the caster sugar.
2. Place the elderflower heads amongst the fruit
3. In a mixing bowl, rub the butter into the flour and salt until it resembles fine breadcrumbs
4. Stir the remaining sugar and chopped hazelnuts into the mixing bowl
5. Spread the dry mix evenly over the top of the gooseberries
6. Bake in a pre-heated oven at 200C/400F/Gas 6 for 40-45 minutes until the top is crispy. Serve hot or cold with custard, cream, or ice-cream.

Source:  Tessa Bramley. Harry Ramsden’s A Taste of Tradition. (1997). Harper Collins.  ISBN 0004140141